Volvo 240 Rough Idle Facts

About Volvo 240 Rough Idle

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1984 Volvo 240 DL Wagon Rough / Erratic Idle and Stalling Help? I'm having a sudden issue with my '84 240 DL Wagon (215,000 miles). I purchased it 2 months ago and it's been running wonderfully. Yesterday afternoon, out of the blue, it had trouble kicking over. Once it did, the idle was erratic and shook the car. I was able to rev it--and while revved, it felt and sounded normal. However, if I try to move the car at all in a low gear, or at idle, it stalls out. There were no abnormal "symptoms" leading up to this--the car was running very well. We did hit a pretty deep pothole a few days before the problem surfaced. I've checked everything I could think of (even added gas in case the gas gauge had broken) and I'm stuck. Obviously I didn't check the right thing. Any help would be sincerely appreciated.

LtSub replied: "Erratic idle can be caused by many things. When the car died it could very well been because the engine was running so poorly, but it also opens a whole separate door of problems. I wouldn't start there though. I'm not familiar with the model, but all engines need three things to run; spark, air and fuel. So I would suggest checking your air filter, spark plugs, wires, distributor assembly, fuel injectors, and fuel pressure. From there, specific parts that cause bad idle include emissions equipment, dirty throttle body, mass air flow sensor, throttle position sensor, idle air control valves, etc. Idle problems can be a huge headache. One easy thing you might do is start the car and go around to the tail pipe and feel the air coming out. If it comes in burst and car might be misfiring. Knowing that would be huge help in diagnosing the problem. Try feeling tail pipe air from a good running vehicle for comparison."

Sang K replied: "Idle is controlled by ICV. Either the ICV is going bad or wrong amount of Air is getting measured from Intake. I would start by cleaning out throttle body with carb cleaner to make sure that there is no air restriction in the intake system. Also check for air leak in the intake system in the same time. If everything checks out, I would take a look at Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF)"

shon42073 replied: "If i had to guess i'd go to the mass air flow sensor first. Thats inline between the airfilter box and the throttle body, try unplugging this and see if you get any difference in the way the car runs. May also be time for a "tune up" wich would be spark plugs, plug wires, and a distributor cap and rotor."

hobbabob replied: "suspect a vacume leak [possibly a cracked intake gasket] while not a common problem i have seen more than a few over the last 25 yrs working on volvo 2-7-9 series [check by spraying carb cleaner ajoint where intake manifold bolts to cyl head"

My 1991 Volvo 240 has an extremely rough idle if it even starts at all, but at highway speeds it cruises fine? I checked my OBD, socket #6 was1's, but socket #2 had a 3-2-2 and a 1-2-1 which I think both relate to an Air Mass Meter issue ($$), but will I have to take to a mechanic? The exhaust smelled of gas and the spark plugs were covered with it when I checked off of a quick 10 second idle, but i don't understand how i could drive 200 highway miles between stall outs (in the matter of a night)? I've had trouble before with my timing belt slipping and i don't know if the problem could be that at high rpm's the timing matches up well enough to keep me going, but in the driveway only 2 out of 4 are firing? Anyway, i would really appreciate any help anyone can give to me, and if you need any more information from me, please don't hesitate to ask. Thank you.

private15ft replied: "Vacuum leak!"

Volvo-Guru replied: "pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, it is probally loaded with fuel, if it is replace the regulator, and yes of those codes are related to the mass air flow sensor: 3-2-2 Mass air flow (MAF) sensor burn-off signal absent or faulty 1-2-1 Mass air flow (MAF) sensor signal absent or faulty REPLACE THE MAF!"

Robert M replied: "Don't forget to de-sludge your engine and shampoo the engine compartment.. A clean engine is a happy engine. Always watch for leaking oil seals around the timing belt, and fix them as necessary. Check for proper functioning of your idle speed control valve, and de-sludge it. Remove and clean all hoses involved in crankcase ventilation (PCV) to prevent early sludge formation. If you can smell gas in your exhaust, be sure to solve abnormalities in F.I. system because unburned fuel will thin out your oil and cause premature bearing failure. When you have resolved these issues, use synthetic oil to prevent future troubles. Good Luck!!!"

bevan b replied: "clean the intake, take apart the intake clean everything and check the accordion shaped plastic pipe for cracks. use electronic cleaner on the air mass meter, get a new throttle assembly gasket, remove the three nuts holding the throttle assembly to the intake manifold, clean thoroughly with carb cleaner. remove the flame trap and clean this out or replace as necessary. drive it faster! check out turbobricks"

hobbabob replied: "most likely you do indeed have a bad maf sensor. however these codes can be erroneously entered by disconnecting the mass air flow sensor and starting the engine [ this forces the computer into limp home mode] if the car actually preforms better in limp mode it guarntees that the mass air flow sensor is faulty. NOTE replace the thermostat for the hot air damper [located in the air cleaner housing] whenever the mass air flow sensor is replaced. if your car does not run better in limp mode clear the codes and test fuel pressure [with a known accurate gauge] spec is 35 psi @ idle with vacume applied to regulator 40psi with vac line disconnected. and under no circumstances should fuel come out of the vacume port on the regulator [be careful around open fuel lines no smoking or unshielded lamps] there are several other conditions that can cause your symptoms but try these first"

I don't know what's wrong with my car. (1989 Volvo 240 GL)? In fact, in a regular drive-to-work-then-back kind of drive, it seems as if nothing is wrong. There is the occasional rough idling and, if I'm really low on gas, stalling. However, if I try to take my car for a long drive, it will eventually crap out even if I'm full on gas and it doesn't seem like anything is wrong. Other than the fact that it won't run. Also- it tends to make a kind of chirping/scraping noise that persists until I hit about 30mph. The noise doesn't seem to have an effect on how it rides (aside from being really annoying).

Sabrina P replied: "It sounds like a clogged fuel filter. Change that and see if it doesn't help it."

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